Le musée consacré au couturier, qui sera inauguré le 19 octobre, retrace l’influence du Maroc sur ses créations et l’importance du lieu dans sa vie avec Bergé. Une manière aussi de construire un mythe.


Ce matin de septembre � Orly, les franchisés d’un distributeur d’électroménager partent pour leur séminaire annuel au Club Med de Marrakech. Ils sont tous coiffés d’un chapeau de paille � la marocaine : ils savent que le dépaysement est affaire de décors et de costumes. Deux éléments qui sont précisément � l’origine du musée Yves Saint Laurent, qui sera inauguré � Marrakech le 19 octobre.

Costumes

La photographie du couturier en djellaba, qui dissimule l’entrée du bâtiment, le confirme. La ville qu’Yves Saint Laurent découvre en 1966 a nourri l’exotisme de ce Parisien natif d’Oran. Dès 1968, il lance la veste saharienne, étrangement inspirée de l’uniforme de l’Afrikakorps, l’armée nazie au Maghreb, et des soldats coloniaux. Frappé par les couleurs dans les rues, il revisite tarbouchs, burnous et caftans. Saint Laurent transpose en vêtements le jardin du peintre Majorelle, acheté avec Pierre Bergé en 1980, et qui jouxte aujourd’hui le musée.

D’entrée, le vêtement est au centre de la petite communauté occidentale autour d’Yves Saint Laurent, où se donnent bals costumés orientaux et où s’invente en caftan un orientalisme bohème et chic.

L’actrice Talitha Getty, femme du millionnaire, se déguise en paysanne, mêlant broderies et guenilles. William Burroughs, familier du groupe � Marrakech, en donne une pochade crue dans la fiction d’anticipation The Wild Boys, publiée en 1971 : «Toutes les pédales de la planète campent ici et l� déguisés en garçons sauvages. Il y a des costumes Bowery, ils ont l’air tachés d’urine et de dégueulis, mais si on les examine de près, on se rend compte que ce sont des broderies subtiles de fils d’or fin.»

Un ermite mondain

Le caftan comme le salon marocain autorisent l’abandon des codes mondains. Le Marrakech de Saint Laurent se veut aussi en (...)

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